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Step 1 - AC/Stereo Fascia Removal
In order to get to the shifter bushings, you must remove the center console. Instead of removing the entire console as you would with
some of the older Z's, we can remove only those pieces that allow access to the shifting mechanism. Anytime you remove the console, the
fascia around the AC controls and stereo must also be removed (or at least moved out of the way). There are four screws holding the fascia in place;
two on either side of the air vents and two just above the stereo compartment (Figure 1). The two screws on the air vents are each covered by small
plastic clips. Using a flat blade screwdriver, gently pry them off and put them in a safe place (we used the "junk" bin below the
stereo compartment). Then, using your #2 philips head screwdriver, remove the two screws. Like the air vent screws, the two screws above the
stereo compartment are hidden behind a plastic cover. Gently remove the flat plastic piece, being very careful not to break the clips that
fasten the cover to the console. Note that it is easy to accidentally drop the clips behind the console. Again, using your #2 philips head
screwdriver, remove the screws and set them aside. You should now be able to slip the fascia up and out of the way. If you wish to remove
the fascia all together, simply unplug the clock and/or any other connections located at the bottom of the fascia (Figure 2).
Step 2 - Center Console Removal
The first steps to removing the front center console piece is to remove both shifter knob and ashtray (Figure 3). Luckily for us, the shift knob was
already loose and easy to remove. But if you should have a knob that has never been removed, you may find it quite difficult to twist. In
this case, you will need to wrap the shifter knob in either thick rubber or many layers of cloth and twist the knob off using large pliers or a
medium sized pipe wrench being very careful not to tear the leather covering the knob. Unlike the knob, the ashtray is a breeze to remove.
Simply open the ashtray and lift the tray up and out. Removing the ashtray will reveal a single screw which holds the back end of the console
in place. Using the #2 philips head screwdriver, remove it and place it with the others. Note: All of the AC/stereo fascia and center
console screws are identical, so mixing them is of no consequence. The last step in removing the console is to remove the two screws
located at the front of the console (just under the afore mentioned "junk" bin). Now you can easily lift the front end of the console
and pull the entire assembly forward and out. Note that there are two plastic guides (back) which center this console with the rear center console,
thus the need to pull forward before pulling the console up. You can now lay the console to the side or remove it completely by disconnecting the
plugs connecting the cigarette lighter/mirror adjustment/defroster mechanism (Figure 4).
Warning: After removing the console, note the small yellow box with the accompanying yellow wire lume located just under the upper console area.
DO NOT IN ANY WAY TOUCH THIS BOX OR ANY OF IT'S CONNECTIONS. This small box contains the SRS Air Bag mechanism. Although unlikely, shorting or charging any of it's
connections may activate the driver side airbag which, in turn, may result in serious injury or even death.
Step 3 - Dust Boot/Armature Support Removal
Being one of the easiest steps in this tech tip, all that is required is the removal of both dust boots and four bolts (Figure 5). Although the rubber boot looks
as if it is one piece, it is actually two. You will lesson the chance of ripping either boot by removing them one at a time (the lower boot is held in place by a single nut).
To remove the top dust boot, gently pull outwards from each side of the boot in order to disconnect it from the lower boot's "tabs" and carefully lift it up and over
the shifter. To remove the lower boot, use the ratchet and 12mm socket (with 6" extension for better clearance) and remove the nut and washer then remove the boot just as
you did for the upper boot (Figure 6). Note that it is very easy to drop the nut and it's washer if you're not careful. After removing the nut and washer, the shifting armature should fall
slightly into the transmission tunnel (this is normal). Next, using the same 12mm socket, remove the four bolts which hold the armature support to the transmission tunnel. Lift
and remove the support up and out (Figure 7).
Step 4 - Stick Shift Removal
The stick shift is held in place by two bolts (on top) and one large bolt which slides through the linkage and shifter base where our bushings are located (Figure 8). Remove the top bolts using
the 12mm socket. Note that the top of the second bolt is actually underneath the shifter base. Use caution when removing this bolt. It is easy to accidentally drop it into the
transmission tunnel. It may also be easier to use the 12mm box end wrench to start removing the bolt, then unthread the rest of it by hand once it is loose. To remove the large bolt
connecting the shifter to the linkage, place your 12mm box end wrench on the left end of the bolt, keeping it in place, while using the 12mm socket to loosen the other end. Again, be
careful not to drop the nut into the transmission tunnel. With the last bolt out, you can slide out the cylindrical sleeve between the linkage (Figure 9)
and remove the stick shift through the armature (Figure 10).
Step 5 - Bushing Installation
After discarding the old bushings (if there are any left), place the new bushings into the base of the shifter (without the sleeve). You can optionally place a small amount of grease within the
base of the shifter. This will make it easier for the sleeve to be reinserted. It will also reduce the amount of "squeak" your shifter will make with the new bushings in place.
Then, using a hammer or vice (preferred), press the sleeve back into the base of the shifter (which is an extremely tight fit with new bushings) (Figure 11). Be very careful when inserting the sleeve, making
sure that you are inserting it straight into the shifter. Incorrect insertion could crack or damage one of the bushings. We used a vice because we could apply slow and controlled pressure
while inserting the sleeve. After inserting the sleeve, the shifter will be ready for re-assembly (Figure 12).
Step 6 - Re-assembly
To coin a phrase from ye ol' Chilton Guide, "Assemble in reverse order". Note that since we now have new bushings, the base of the shifter will require a fair amount of
pressure to fit between the arms of the linkage. You can either push it into place using brute force or you may choose to bend the linkage arms slightly outward using a pair of pliers.
Enjoy!
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