Are you getting lag in the low gears? Hesitation on the highway? If so, it may be caused by something as simple as a bad fuel filter or loose spark plug wire. But if that's not the case, it just might be the air flow meter (AFM). If you have done everything you can possibly think of in hopes of avoiding the obnoxious price tag of a new (or even used) AFM without success, then it's probably time to give in to your fears, bite the bullet, and just replace the blasted thing. It may be a fairly expensive repair, but at least it's a simple one. All you will need are a couple of screwdrivers, one socket, and a box-end wrench. This procedure should take about 30 minutes.

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Step 1 - Air Cleaner/Air Intake Removal
In order to remove the AFM, the air cleaner / air intake box (intake) need to be removed first to allow for easier access to the four bolts holding the AFM to it's bracket. The intake is located at the front of the engine compartment, just in front of the fan shroud (Figure 1). There are four bolts holding the unit in place; two on the front cross member of the engine bay and two on either side of the hood latch receptacle (Figure 2). Using the ratchet and 10mm socket (with 2" extension for better clearance), remove the four bolts and place them somewhere safe. Before removing the intake, you must also disconnect the intake hose from the unit (on the right side of the intake). Using your #2 phillips head screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp making sure it is just loose enough to remove the intake unit, but not too loose as it may come apart. To remove the intake, push the entire unit to the left in order to slide it out of the intake hose, then lift up and out (Figure 3). Place the intake unit in a safe place where it will be out of the way and not get stepped on.

Step 2 - Air Intake Hose Removal
Unlike the air intake unit, the AFM is much more difficult to remove because of the limited space to access the bolts, which are underneath it. But before removing the bolts, you must first remove the other side of the air intake hose from the AFM (Figure 4). Once again, using your #2 phillips head screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp, but this time, remove the hose completely and set it aside in a safe place. This is a good time to inspect the hose making sure that it is still somewhat flexible and has no cracks or serious abrasions. Any holes or leaks in this hose will allow dust and dirt into your intake system, which will eventually cause serious damage to your engine.

Step 3 - Air Flow Meter Removal
Using a flat blade screwdriver (or needle nose pliers), carefully remove the retaining clip that secures the wire harness to the AFM, then slide the connector off of the AFM. Be very careful not to drop the clip. It is very difficult to find because your line of site into the engine compartment is extremely limited (trust me). Then, using the same flat blade screwdriver, loosen the clamp that secures the throttle body intake hose to the AFM. (Figure 5). After sliding the clamp out of the way, use a 13mm open-end wrench to loosen the four bolts securing the AFM to it's bracket (Figure 6). Note that it is easiest to loosen the front two bolts with your left hand (standing to the side of the car) and the rear bolts with your right (standing in front). It also makes it convenient to have either a small (4") ratchet or a ratcheted closed-end (round 8-12 point) wrench. After the bolts are loose enough to turn with your fingers, carefully remove the bolts completely (being careful not to drop them into the engine compartment) and set them in a safe place. The AFM should easily slide out through the hole previously occupied by the air intake hose (Figure 7).

Step 3 - Re-assembly
Using your replacement AFM, simply assemble in reverse order. Note that since you may have spent a considerable amount of money on replacing the AFM, it would be a wise choice to replace the actual air filter at this time.

Enjoy!