The second-generation 300ZX (Z32) has a tendency to have wheel hop on hard launches. One of the reasons Z32s wheel hop is because the sub frame is mounted loosely, causing the sub frame to bounce up and down. With the stock setup, the body floats about an inch before the suspension does anything. What the spacers do is completely compress the stock rubber bushings so the body does not float separately from the sub frame. Compressing the stock bushings results in much more responsive handling and also greatly reduces wheel hop. Also, by retaining the stock rubber mounts, you're still isolating noise and vibration, versus replacing them with solid aluminum or delrin bushings, which require removal of the subframe to install and result in a much harsher ride. This simple mod will accomplish the same thing the expensive sub-frame bushings do (reduce wheel hop and free play in the rear subframe), and without having to go through the hassle or expense of removing the sub frame. This procedure should take between 30 minutes to an hour.

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Step 1 - Raising the Rear
Make sure the vehicle is on a level surface and place the wheel chocks around the front tires. Using the floor jack, raise the rear end of the car off the ground high enough to work comfortably under the car (Figure 3 and Figure 4). Place the jack stands so that they support the weight of the vehicle (Figure 5). Lower the jack enough to place the load onto the jack stands. You can leave the jack in place for extra safety.

Step 2 - Rear Spacer Installation
Spray penetrating lubricant onto the nuts that hold the sub frame bushing in place (Figure 6 and Figure 7). After allowing some time for the penetrating lubricant to work, remove the nut using the 17mm socket and ratchet. You may need to use a breaker bar to make things easier. Once the nut is removed, also remove the steel plate (Figure 8). Place the spacer onto the steel plate (Figure 9 and Figure 10) and reinstall onto the bushing (Figure 11). Torque the nut to 65 ft-lbs. Repeat this procedure for the other rear bushing.

Step 3 - Front Spacer Installation
Spray penetrating lubricant onto the nuts and bolts that hold the bracket to the bushing (Figure 12). After allowing some time for the penetrating lubricant to work, remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the frame using the 14mm socket and ratchet. You may need to use a breaker bar to loosen the bolts. Once the bolts are removed, use the 17mm socket and ratchet to remove the nut that holds the bracket to the bushing. You must remove the bolts first or else you run the risk of putting strain on the bushing causing it to leak. Once the bracket has been removed, place the spacer on the bracket (Figure 13 and Figure 14) and reinstall. Reinstall the bracket by installing the nut first onto the bushing then install the bolts that mount the bracket to the frame last. Again this is done to avoid stressing the bushing. Torque the nut to 65 ft-lbs and the two bolts to 28 ft-lbs. Spacer should look like Figure 15 when complete. Repeat procedure for other front bushing.

Step 3 - Lowering the Vehicle
Make sure there are no tools left under the vehicle. Lift the vehicle high enough to remove the jack stands using the floor jack. Remove the jack stands. Remove the wheel chocks off the front wheels. Test drive the vehicle and notice that you are now able to launch hard with very little to no wheel hop. Re-torque the nuts and bolts after driving the vehicle to make sure they have not come loose.

Enjoy!